flor da maçanilha

My life and thoughts in Rio Grande do Sul

Wine Whine

I really love life in Brazil. Sure, it’s different, but living between England and Germany meant I was always  missing either German bread or English crisps so for me missing things from another country is just what life’s about. I’m ok with the people and culture, I’m ok with living in a small town, I’m even ok with the constant “wow you speak good Portuguese” comments, because I’d probably say the same to a Brazilian abroad.

There is just ONE tiny tiny thing, which really gets to me. And the worst thing is it’s kinda my fault for being picky.

WHAT DO I DRINK IN A BRAZILIAN RESTAURANT?!

Last night my noivo and I went out for  meal in a new pizzaria in town. The waitress asked the dreaded question:

“Querem algo para beber?”

Here goes.

The obvious answer is of course BEER. But. I. hate. beer. Yup, grew up in Germany but hate beer . Any beer. Even chopp. Not just the taste but the heavy feeling it gives you. What I love, is wine. Lets give it a try.

” Do you have any wine by the glass or a half bottle”

“Sorry, but we haven’t any wine in stock yet”.

WHAT?! Usually its bad enough that I have to buy a whole bottle of wine when all I want is a glass (and they CHILL the red wine), but no wine at all? Not even the stomach-churning Jota Pe (which I’m convinced is cachaca mixed with grape juice)???

“Ok, just bring me a water.” Time to think.

My noivo tries to convince me to have one of the other drinks on the menu. But although I love a martini or campari on a night out, they don’t really go with pizza. So what about caipirinha I hear you saying?

Well. I can’t drink a caipirinha on an empty stomach unless I want to start dancing on the tables, but a few slices into the rodizio I tried to risk it – On the menu there were three choices: with vodka, with bacardi lemon (yurch), or with kurasal (double yurch). I really can’t drink vodka, it gives me a terrible headache in the morning.  So we ask the waitress whether she can bring me a caipirinha with cachaça.

“No sorry, we don’t have any cachaça”.

Sigh.I thought I moved to BRAZIL not RUSSIA.

So halfway through the evening I was getting really sick of water.  Turning away from alcoholic beverages (that was obviously not going to work), I decided to ask for something simple: an orange juice. And I didn’t even care if it was freshly squeezed or out of a can. And I put aside my issues in asking for a “suco de laranja” because my tongue always tangles on the “ranja”. Third time lucky, right?

I actually laughed in the girl’s face (with tears in my eyes), when she said “Sorry, but we’re not making juices yet”.

“Just bring me another water”…

Dear Brazil,

Please, please please learn to love wine. It is so much better for your health and less fattening to boot. I’ve even heard that all the chilled beer you drink is the reason for so many gastritis and stomach cancer cases in your country. Wine however is full of antioxidants which PREVENT cancer. Besides the taste is delicious. And whatever you may say, pizza was NOT made to be eaten with beer, but with wine. And there are three different varieties for summer, winter and spring! And the colour is just so much more beautiful.

If these reason’s aren’t enough for you, think of poor me, sipping water with no ice and no lemon during a pizza rodizio.

*And don’t tell me to drink “refri”, it rots your teeth).

Thank you for hearing me out,

Julie

Vacaria

I’m really not sure whether this post will be of any use to anyone, but you never know so here we go!

I’ve just come back from a 3-day stay in Vacaria, a tiny tiny town in the North of Rio Grande do Sul. I had a lovely trip but Vacaria is so small that I can’t imagine anyone reading my blog going to visit it (there is nothing to see) or to live there (there is nothing to do). The town, however, does have some good points:

1) cool climate: in the midst of the current not-really-spring-more-like-summer heat Vacaria was freshened by a welcome wind – the heat was still there but much more bearable and but especially at night it was wonderfully chilly.

2)  raspberries: I know Brazilian tropical fruit is awesome, but sometimes I REALLY miss a good gooseberry or raspberry. Vacaria is home to ITALBRAS, a company with two huge berry plantations: raspberries, strawberries, physalis, strawberries, blueberries and Brazilian blackberries. I’ve come home with three over-priced punnets and 3kg of frozen fruit! The manager actually took time to show me around the plantation so of course I asked a million questions – surprisingly the fruit mainly exported to Europe, since Brazilians simply have no interest in buying it. And there I was buying raspberries in England thinking they were local… The really crazy piece of information was that the company SENDS Brazilian workers to Sweden during the picking season, since it’s cheaper to pay Brazilian wages plus flights plus accommodation than hire Swedes… what a crazy world we live in.

Anyway, my new aim is to work up a national demand for all the products I miss (real cheddar, real brie, real camembert, chocolate hobnobs, etc) so that companies start selling them here…

3) this view:

This was the view from the floor-to-ceiling windows in our hotel room. We stayed at the wonderful Pousada Santa Teresa.

I so wish there were something exciting to see in Vacaria so I could get people go and stay at the pousada. The rooms are beautiful – simple, but elegantly furnished in a kind of country/Japanese style mix. All rooms come with a double bed, TV and slightly temperamental free internet connection. The main building also has a stunning TV room with more floor-to-ceiling windows which drag your eyes away from whatever program you are watching. The place also has a restaurant and bar, the food is delicious, all cooked by the owner’s wife, and the bar actually serves GOOD red wine by the glass!  The pousada is tucked away from the main road and the rooms were relatively cheap at 45Reis per night per person. Every room looks out onto this lake:

At sunset the colours were just fantastic (obviously I forgot my camera at this point). I’d brought my laptop along to work while my fiancé was at the office so I set up my own “office” looking out onto the lake – seriously, my dream house definitely has to come with a lake and ducks!

4) …

Thats it. Seriously, Vacaria, over three days, seemed to demonstrate the worst points of a small Brazilian countryside town:

* no centre: I tried to drive to the centre and I think I found it, but the only thing showing it was there was a church: no central square, park, meeting area or anything

* nondescript streets and houses : Vacaria seems to have had no real planning – no tree-lined streets, no parks (again), nothing to make walking along the sidewalk only slightly pleasant

* nothing to see in the area: usually there are signposts around urban centres pointing to historical routes or tours or sights. Here? Nothing. We asked one of my fiancé’s colleagues what we could go and see on the way back…answer? Nothing.

Sigh.

I met two people from the city who told me they would never leave it for the world, but I did have a colleague in Porto Alegre who said she would never go back. Perhaps the city has its hidden charms and social life, but on a first glance? However, if anyone happens to be on a road trip across Brazil, when you cross from Santa Catarina into Rio Grande do Sul, this is THE definite place to stay.

Cockroach Nightmare

Before Brazil I had never seen a cockroach. The closest I ever got to one was watching X-men at the Cinema, and that one seemed kinda cute. Now I live with about 50. I’m really not good with big (crunchy) 6-8 legged things to start with but cockroaches must be the pit of the insect kingdom. They may even have replaced the praying mantis as least favourite animal ever. Worst of all, not only do they live in my new house, but they’re favourite place is my new bathroom. Somehow I feel even more vulnerable in a place where I’m not wearing shoes…

Seriously, my skin is crawling as I think about it.

Now my wonderful fiancé got some guy to come by and “detonizar” the whole house, i.e. spray some strong insecticide and kill all the creepy crawlies. So now i have about 7 DEAD cockroaches on the floor of my bathroom. And for some reason there is something about dead insect which nearly creeps me out more than live ones. Something about the other insects getting angry that I killed them and coming back to haunt me. So there is no way I am going near those 7+ cockroaches, even with rubber gloves and a newspaper. My poor fiancée is going to have a great job when he gets back from work: collecting insect corpses because his silly girlfriend is too much of a wuss.

Now I do wonder why some insects make me want to run and hide while I’m ok with others :

* anything smaller than my little finger’s fingernail I’m generally ok with, even when dead

* butterflies, moths, etc all ok, preferably alive

* grasshoppers and similar, also ok, only alive

Also, I have absolutely no problem with mice, rats, snakes, bats or any other animal. Just the many-legged things.

To finish off, I just have to share this story with you. I used to have quite a bad case of addiction to sweetened condensed milk. If I opened the carton I’d just have to finish it and it would be quickly spooned away over the next couple of days, to the detriment of my waistline. I used to NOT make dessert with condensed milk simply unless the recipe called for a whole carton. This affliction has now been cured. Please don’t read this if you are just eating or have a major phobia of insects or just don’t want to read something gross. Do read this if you want to stop snacking on sweetened condensed milk.

My fiancées friend told me the following story about his aunt the other day. Apparently she also enjoyed a bit of sweetened condensed milk and she used to buy it in cans. Rather than opening the can, she’d just punch two holes in the and then take a sip when she felt like it. She stored her tin underneath her bed, a handy place for a night-time snack. So one day she was getting to the end of her tin and got out the tin-opener and opened the lid to get to the rest. What did she find inside?

A huge cockroach.

The size of her thumb.

Sitting in the can.

Now the really gross thing is that the beast obviously couldn’t have got into the can through the tiny holes, so a baby cockroach had been living inside the can and fattening itself up for DAYS while she unsuspectingly drank the condensed milk.

URGH!! This really gives me the shakes.

The good thing? I’ve never sucked on a can of sweetened condensed milk since!

Phew, sorry about the kinda disturbing post, but it HAS been great getting it off my chest. Love to know if anyone else finds the story helpful, sorry if I spoilt anyones dinner. Take Care!

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